The Basque Country is a special place, San Sebastián is an obvious stop for most but there so much more to see. The coast is rugged and beautiful and seasonal seafood from those cold Atlantic waters is central to this great cuisine. Traveling up through Rioja and Ribera del Duero we stopped for a wine tasting or three, roast lamb cooked over fire, pears poached in red wine and a cheeky vermouth in a quaint village square that felt a million miles from anywhere. Kokotxas or cod throats and cheeks
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